Frequently Asked Questions about the All J Products' Frankenlift....and a lot of other useful information about lifting a KJ.
My KJ is pre-lowered, does that mean I will get a different amount of lift on my KJ?
A few things to keep in mind about lifting KJ's. When you swap out the front struts with a complete new replacement unit, it no longer becomes "lowered" or a "pre-lowered" KJ. The stock springs are what decides that. Once the stock strut assembly is in the trash, they ARE ALL at the same starting point.
I just lifted my Liberty and I got more of a lift than expected, how did this happen?
KJ's ALL VARY in the ride height department. Some have saggy springs, some have stiffer springs. This is why you get KJ's sitting at all different ride heights from the factory. If you add a Daystar or other spacer lift, you are dependent on the condition of the factory springs. If your factory springs were sagging, and the new springs you put on are 1.5" lift springs, then you are going to see 1.5" of lift PLUS the difference of where the old spring was sagging down below factory height.
Good information for measuring your actual lift after installation of a lift kit:
1) Measure from the pinch weld. Measure from the front rocker panel pinch weld and then measure from the rear rocker panel pinch weld. The measurements should match or be very close.
2) If you have Boulder Bars, or another company's bars, installed on your KJ, measure from the bar to the ground. (We obviously won't guarantee another company's rails will be straight from front to back, but we will are confident that our KJ Boulder Bars will give you an accurate measurement.)
KJs usually come from the factory a little higher in the rear. Once we lift a KJ with a Frankenlift, we get the KJ to be leveled from front-to-rear (using the measuring guide above). If you go too high in the rear (by adding too many extra spacers for instance), you will overtax the rear "wishbone" ball joint.
What size tire can I run on my lifted KJ?
Now that you're Frankenlifted, decide on your tire size. Some of the spring lifts don't give enough lift so you may not be able to run as large of a tire.
Also on tires: 245/75-16 tires fit the best out of all the sizes on a lifted KJ. And about 80% of those KJs NEED to pound out the pinch weld behind the front tires. It depends on your type of wheeling. It also depends on the actual tire diameter and width. All tire brands are not exactly the same.
AND YES! You can run 265's on a lifted KJ, but make sure whatever lift you choose is at the max height. Also plan on trimming your inner front fender wells, part of the front fenders, the air dam, and pounding in the pinch weld behind the tires (remember: all tire brands are not exactly the same!). This will leave the washer bottle exposed, so some undercoating or a sheet metal shield over it works okay. When we trim out the front, we undercoat the areas trimmed to preserve the life of the KJ. Completely removing the plastic inner fenders also works, but may not be enough protection in snow county, or where the roads are salted.
And then on most lifted KJ's the tires will rub the front sway bar at full steering lock. Fact of life! No fix for this yet by anyone. The only exception would be different offset rims, but that can lead to other issues. 2003-2006 TJ Rubicon Moab wheels work well to solve this in most cases.
And for reference, we have lifted hundreds of KJs at the All J Products shop. We have a pretty good handle on what works for a KJ. Also, we have lifted KJ's with over 100,000 miles on them, in and out on a regular basis for testing and research. I would venture to say that All J Products has lifted more KJ's than anyone else in the country - probably even all other shops put together!
CRD Liberty lifting info: At this time we are only recommending the OME2790 Front H/D Springs for a CRD Spring lift - the CRD needs these particular OME2790 springs to handle the weight of the CRD. No other aftermarket springs available in the US are heavy enough to do the job properly.
A WORD ABOUT OTHER LIFT KITS:
We frequently get phone calls, messages, and emails from unfortunate KJ owners who have purchased lift kits from other companies who offer a lesser quality KJ lift kit because it costs less (you get what you pay for). These unfortunate KJ owners all ask us the same type of questions:
(1) "Can All J Products fix my <other lift kit name> that just destroyed my struts in one week/one month?"
(2) "Can I buy only some parts of the Frankenlift to fix my <other lift kit name>?"
(3) "I live in Canada and I just bought another KJ lift kit from another company; I made a mistake buying this kit and now it's too expensive to ship back to the other company. Can I get some of the parts from the Frankenlift and mix them with some parts from the other kit so I don't have to buy all new parts?
The answer to all of these questions is the same: You need to buy the Frankenlift or the OME lift, we no longer will take the responsibility to FIX other companys' problem lift kits.
Settling the Frankenlift to ride height: The front coils will need to settle after putting the lift on -- that means the KJ needs to be taken over dips, speed bumps and off-roaded on a bumpy, rutted trail. It is a Heavy Duty off-road lift kit that was designed to be used off-road. So it needs to settle over the course of a couple of hundred miles (or more depending on if you drive it off-road or not) while you drive it (faster than usual - but don't go crazy) over dips, speed bumps, and taking it off-roading. Also, another wheel alignment will be needed once the lift settles (usually within 300 miles).
I hope this information helps you and wasn't too lengthy to read -- I know it was a lot of information to digest.
Let me know if you have any additional questions that we can answer for you.
All J Products